Day 7-9 

Photos (best seen on a PC to see the annotations):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/81bpnah4Xk33PoxD9

Kochi is quite a military town, with large Naval and other armed forces bases, and a shipyard where aircraft carriers are built. I just missed a visit here by Modhi yesterday (election soon – posters everywhere).  Krishna said the Communist state government here will remove all the BJP posters the next day. The communists here seem very unpopular.

I learned the tuk-tuk is called the ‘Air Conditioned Indian Ferrari’ here. Seeing lots of electric ones, and electric scooters. I preface all trips with “Hello! No, I don’t want to visit your brother/cousin/uncles shop, no matter how magnificent his wares are, and how low are the prices, or I won’t get in”, before the driver utters a word. Then the fare negotiations: “How much?? I said I’m FROM Australia, NOT that I wanted you to drive me there”.

Travel from Calicut to Kochi was via train – 2nd class air conditioned car (it was the only class available – I wasn’t being a scrooge). The seats were better than Jetstar economy, with more room, and the A/C worked very well. There were only 2 people coughing in the carriage (fewer than in a Melbourne tram), and it was otherwise a quiet and comfortable trip.

Did a round of the Kochi sights, starting with the famous Chinese fishing nets (established around 1400AD), which are steadily disappearing – not surprising, as they are surrounded by garbage and I think all they can catch these days is typhoid – a sad end. The net operators are fishing for tourists, not fish – more rewarding to charge them to come up close for the selfie. 

I’m still not seeing fabulous beaches, or anyone at all swimming – just large crowds at water’s edge, staring out to sea, all avoiding looking down at the first few metres of ocean.

India really needs the mayor of Sultan Bathery as PM.

Other sights were the Paradesi Synagogue (built 1568), one of the oldest active, and the even older Kadavumbagan Synagogue (1200, but some renovations since). Maintained by a Jewish businessman (one of only 18 Jews left here). The St Francis Church (also 1500’s), Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica (also 1500’s, but rebuilt in 1880), and the Indo-Portuguese Museum (full of religious artefacts). Not a bad day’s work for an atheist! There aren’t any Mosques of note here, and they wouldn’t let me in anyway.

I saw Vasco da Gama’s tomb in the church. The remains were removed to Portugal a few years after burial – presumably to prevent locals dancing on it?

I (nervously) had a seafood thali dinner at Oceanus (recommended by Krishna). It was utterly delicious and filling, for $7, better than many Michelin degustations. The sardines baked in banana leaf were brilliant. Enjoying dosas with sambar for breakfast. Outstanding vegan lunch at Subhiksha restaurant served on a banana leaf (no cutlery – hands only). Discovered a refreshing hot drink ‘pepper water’. 

A 30 minute ferry ride cost 10c. A 30 minute bus was 20c.