Alleppey to Munnar

Photos (best seen on a PC to see the annotations):https://photos.app.goo.gl/s84Mc58d8z1NZ1Li7

Videos of Tea Factory:https://photos.app.goo.gl/a4r7iRarVdAg34Gj8

I learned a quaint colloquialism: “He will take the blood from your neck”. It refers to someone who talks to much and won’t go away  (ie a pest - mosquitoes are the origins of that phrase). When Krishna said “You will meet Rajesh, and he will take the blood from your neck”, I was initially alarmed (was I about to meet a vampire? Get stabbed?), until he explained. Mr Rajesh did indeed talk too much – I was exsanguinated.

Krishna is very happy, as Alleppey is his home town, and he was able to stay home for a few nights.

I learned a lot about the Catholics here from host Rajeev, and why they are called Syrian Christian Roman Catholic – nothing to do with Syria except St Thomas who came to convert them arrived from Syria in 52AD. Rajeev, like everyone I have spoken to is very anti the Communist state government. Rajeev thanks Catholic schools for the 100% literacy in Kerala, although some others think the government may have played a role.

It was a long (5 hr), slow, winding drive to Munnar in the upper regions of the Western Ghats, much cooler than down below. Spices and tea grow here, and there were plenty of rubber tree plantations on the lower slopes. Munnar is a very tourist region. Catholic churches everywhere.

I passed a sign on the way saying ‘beware of attacks by wild elephants’, but was unable to stop for a photo (of that sign – not elephants). I’d be more concerned about the elephants forcing me to join their herd, given my current circumference, than being trampled.

Stopped at a touristy garden with lots of spice trees and bushes, although it isn’t the right season for many of them, so it looked pretty scraggly, but it was interesting nonetheless. At one point the guide pointlessly pointed to a bush which was literally a few unidentifiable pointy dried sticks that secateurs had randomly attacked. There was a shop with very overpriced ayurvedic pills – I resisted the temptation, despite the exhortations my memory would become perfect and I would magically lose weight.

The Spice Tree hotel is swish. It’s spectacularly located high on a slope, on a cliff face, in beautiful forest. It’s a five story climb from my room to breakfast. I’m getting the forest-bathing hippie vibe happening again, but this place is pretty sophisticated, so wearing rainbow crochet drop crotch fisherman/harem pants is off the agenda.

Oddly, no A/C here, but the temperature is perfect. At dinner the restaurant was full of old, very well dressed British. I was a fish out of water in my King Gees and sandals (a quintessential Aussie slob).  Masala chai here was 200 rupees (plus 18% tax) - I had one earlier today en-route at a nice enough place for 24 rupees. They get away with it because this place is very isolated.

Visited a tea manufacturer. An educational experience indeed. In the ancient factory, where huge machines apparently designed without many OH&S concerns whirred with operators one small slip away from becoming part of a tea bag, it seemed odd that tour groups were herded through in close proximity, where a stumble could result in dismemberment at best (see the videos).Much was learned here about tea, and the value of life. The rubbish quality of what goes into teabags was confirmed – I will never use bags again – it’s pretty much floor sweepings – the tea company guide said this, and said no-one should drink it. There was a tasting of many different teas, all delicious except the bag quality one.

I discovered ‘White Tea’, from young buds harvested before they have opened fully, from the best plants, treated to minimise oxidation. The brew was clear, delicately flavoured, with a scent of stone fruits and flowers. About $400/kilo. 

The scenery around Munnar is very beautiful. Big mountains and well kempt tea plantations.