Off to Japan for a month. 1.5 days in Palm Cove first, before Jetstar Cairns - > Osaka.
1 & 2 Palm Cove BnB with a very (perhaps tooo) friendly couple. The bloke made it very clear he was a Knight Templar Mason, with walls covered in pictures of various ceremonies, and lots of swords on the walls. Was very hot there after Melbourne. Superb dinner at NuNu - seriously good food - an Asian twist to local produce, with a lovely waiter from France whose accent was so thick I could barely follow her.\

3,4 & 5 Osaka
The baggage handlers certainly aren’t following Australian standards - each piece was placed on the belt upright and aligned perfectly parallel to other bags. There were numerous staff whose job was to realign bags if they fell or were jostled. Yep, we’re in Japan… Stinking hot and humid.
Despite the humidity we did a lot of (uncomfortable) walking.
Saw Osaka Castle, & the History Museum (because it was cold inside). Found really great coffee at Brooklyn Roasting Company. Saw a HiFi shop with amps more expensive than my car - made me wish I didn’t have bad tinnitus and wasn’t going deaf. Discovered ‘Maid Cafes’ where guys pay go to have flirty chat with ‘frilly tacky maid’ dressed young girls, and drink overpriced anything - no touch or sex - weird (but there are a few that offer ‘additional services’). The first time I saw one of these places I thought it was an ice-cream shop (see photo). V said I don’t need to go in, as she is happy to talk to me for free with no touch either.
Saw a mall full of kitchen stuff that could outfit every restaurant in Japan.
Osaka Okonomiyaki for dinner - fabulous. Explored the Dotonbori area, went to Kalko wine bar with some unusual wines. Had our first Japanese red - Black Queen grape - it was OK.
Next day at the Aquarium - one of the world’s largest. Spent hours there, not just because it was cool inside. Went big store shopping, and had Daimaru (exquisite) takeaway to eat in the hotel (because it was very cool), with a terrific Domaine du Pelican chardy.\

6 & 7 Hiroshima
Arrived middle of the day - found a REALLY superb coffee at Wakakusa cafe., found after intense Googling (junkies need fixes). We went there every day - they were sad when we left town. Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki that night - different to Osaka style - it’s full of noodles. We preferred the Osaka variant, but the restaurant was great fun. Atomic Bomb Museum next day - very powerful and intense experience. We stood at ground zero., and looked at building ruins. It wasn’t a joyous day. Izakaya night - incredibly good, and quite cheap at Hiroshi Toda. Said goodbye to Wakakusa, and had a sensational Matcha Tart from Boulangerie 101 Brio. The Japanese often out-French the French.

Osaka: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PSYKxoaKsRuYKAy96

Hiroshima: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NySABdbuEcsp5Wtq7

8 & 9 Fukuoka
Took Shinkansen from Hiroshima. At Hotel Vista - nice place.
No relief from stinking hot humid weather - horrible. As usual, the first step was locate good coffee. Success - REC coffee, very serious baristas, about 100m from the hotel. We went there every day…
Pretty happy with hotel wifi.
Fukuoka is a very lively town. Lots of new exciting architecture, young people, and a really good vibe.
Two nights here, both evenings easting at the same place, sort of. GohGan night I, Goh night 2 - I won’t bore non-foodies with the fine details, but the first is French-Japanese-Indian, the other Japanese. Goh was in the top 50 Asian restaurants for some time in his previous place, as was his collaborator Mr Gaggan. This is their new venture - it kicks goals. Saw some temples, then had to recover from incipient heat stroke. Then Asian Art Gallery - was very good, and cool…
Tomorrow get a rental car & head off for the 18 day drive around Kyushu.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/95RdgTb3JohzVV4w7

10 Huis Ten Bosch, near Sasebo
Strange place - a Dutch replica village theme park - it sounded so weird we had to go.
At the entrance, I could get tickets at discounted price for seniors.
I had to show ID with date of birth - I was flattered it was necessary.
After seeing my ID, despite it not being my birthday, the lady behind the counter showed me a Google translate text on her device that said “I want to wish you a Happy Birthday orally.”
I wasn’t quite sure how to reply, but I really appreciated the sentiment (I’ll be back next March) …
Strangest theme park I’ve ever been in. In usual Japanese style, they did the replica very well. Had interesting glass and ceramics museums. Far too hot to see much of it.
All the restaurants here closed (!!) except an expensive buffet, which we didn’t want, so we ate $2 seaweed wrapped rice balls from the 7-11, with sake. I left there with the word ‘Why?’ ringing in my head.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kvRJo1S1mEaWFe1LA

11 & 12 Nagasaki
I think we landed on the surface of Venus, and not Japan - the weather here is unspeakable this whole week.
Our first stop was a 30 minute drive north (the opposite direction to Nagasaki) to get a coffee at Rinoami Coffee Roastery (of course for coffee any detour is OK). It was a little box in a car park, with a master craftsman inside. He had many carefully selected beans on offer, and meticulously (and slowly) made our coffees - they were awesome - enjoyed in the car, with the AC running full blast, listening to ABC Radio National on ABC Listen app.
We then went east to Hasami, then to the bay at Sonogi, where we took a circuitous route on the Omura Bay Green Rd. Saw intense green lushness everywhere, and spectacularly beautiful rice fields at Onigi Rice Terraces, then a pleasant meandering drive to Nagasaki (Candeo Hotel - super breakfast with awesome view of Nagasaki from 11th fl).
Great coffee at Komekoya Coffee Stands - lovely lady with great coffee.
A-Bomb museum next. It was as harrowing as Hiroshima. Glad Australia only mines Uranium, rather than ‘value adding’ (and Ranger Uranium worked efficiently for many years, with low waste, due to great software). Saw a life-size model of the actual bomb - it was apparently painted bright yellow.
Went to the lookout at the mountain overlooking Nagasaki - fabulous views of city and bay.
First night dinner at Taichi Sushi was excellent - super friendly old guy one man band - $80 all up for two. Next Ramen at Ramen Hiiragi - amazing pork broth tomato ramen and ‘wow’ gyoza, great sake - $45!\

https://photos.app.goo.gl/s3CDetVvxZTFPYX9A

13 & 14 Kumamoto
The drive from Nagasaki to Kumamoto is a bit dull. There was an interesting and lovely bit as we detoured off the main highway to cross the mountains. We have a small Toyota Aqua hybrid rental.
As we hurtled round the mountain bends at a blistering 40-50kph (the speed limit), G-force undetectable, the sound of the motor reminded me of Shakespeare - full of sound and fury, signifying nothing.
But, it’s stupidly economical.
Fairly good coffee at Cafe Superb (exactly near nothing at all, on the 444 road, near Saga), run by two delightful sisters.
Dinner both nights from Sushi Inaho - first night dined in, second night take-away as they were full. They give you a spectacles cleaning wipe when you arrive, so you can see the sushi in fine detail, perhaps?
Saw Kagoshima castle, then had a drive into the country to near Mt Aso, on the Mt Aso Milk Run Rd. All of Kagoshima’s motorcycles were out that afternoon, all tootling along at about 50kph. Nobody speeds here. More really brilliant coffee at the ‘Off Toko Cafe’, (who roast their own beans) in a small side street in Ozu. They had a bizarre but brilliant sweet potato with creme brûlée - more delicious than it sounds.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jK3HTRq5w3VDL18KA

15 & 16 Kirishima Onsen
This time a fabulous drive to Ryokojin Sanso Hotel (weatherbeaten, but well located and good value). Wanted to walk to some hot pools at Ebino Plateau, but it was mostly closed due to volcanic activity. Great scenery all the way, lots of no G-force corners. Dropped to a blissful 23 degrees at altitude.
Had SPECTACULAR coffee on the way at ‘AO Hostel and Cafe Lounge’. It was a new, super cool trendy cafe, with amazing coffee, better cannele than Bordeaux, and a Matcha cake to die for. ‘Slayer’ coffee machine. All this in the fairly nondescript town of Hitoyoshi.
Great outdoor onsens at the hotel. Big omakase feasts. To escape the heat, drove around the mountain, but weather was very poor - rain, clouds… Had our first not so great coffee.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4qUm3Si7D9q8zfc38

17 & 18 Miyazaki
Pleasant drive through ultra-green forests and very steep hills. Found more unbelievably good coffee at ‘Wonderful World Coffee’, a very swish new building again in a very nondescript location. The owner had this wild ‘alt’ look the Japanese do so well.
Visited Kirishima East shrine, whose origins date to 950, and was most recently rebuilt in 1772. Also Gion Shrine in a cave, where Susano-o, Kushinada-hime, and Yamata-no-Orochi are worshiped.
Stopped to see an ancient stone bridge (and got a leech on my leg I didn’t notice until hours later when V said ‘You spilled wine on your pants’, but it was a litre of blood). Hit the coast and some great scenery south of Miyazaki off the 222 road at Nichinan. It’s a ‘surf coast’, but looked anaemic compared to much of Aus surf.
Walked around Aoshima island until just before heat stroke, then went to Natural History Museum. In the last few weeks I have been a huge fan of museums (good or bad) and any building with good air-con. This one was showing age, but was a very good ‘old school’ example (and free) - lots of pinned butterflies and bugs. We were swamped with staff attention on arrival - I think we were the first visitors in months. They ensured (politely) we couldn’t leave until EVERY exhibit was seen, for fear of offending them.
Had Miyazaki Wagyu dinner from a small resto - was as good as you would imagine. Simple - wagyu, shredded cabbage, salt, soy, wasabi, miso soup, beer. $75 for two all up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bUwW6Y6u1RacLif8A

19 Takachiho (and Gorge)
En-route coffee at Strawberry Switchblade Cafe (how could you not go to a cafe with that name?). Great coffee, super friendly guy with some English. The counter was obviously part of his home. When asked why the name, he said ‘Because I just liked the sound of it’.
The gorge was very beautiful.
Had fantastic sushi in a strange restaurant (‘Take-Sushi’), where we wandered through the family house (it seemed like a Japanese ‘Ma & Pa Kettle’ outfit) before finding the sushi counter down the back. The miso soup finisher was mind blowing. The kitchen had utensils, crockery, etc dating back a thousand years, and enough pieces to cater to the MCG. His sushi counter seated six…
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yvu3GfU7gZxTYgnE7

20 & 21 Kurokawa Onsen ‘Oyado Noshiyu’
I had allowed Google Maps to track me on this trip, to help me remember where I’ve been. When checking my history, I was very flattered that it decided that a large part of my trip I was riding a motorcycle - the algorithm felt my journey was unlikely in a car (V nodded in agreement). The car: 67kw, 1490cc motor Toyota Acqua, on Gillette Razor tyres. The roads were very windy.
Two days of luxe retreat. The road to Kurokawa was truly spectacular scenery. Couldn’t stop much for photos as the roads are narrow with few places to stop, and jaw dropping views are often from a high bridge (and always a large truck on your tail).
Amanoya Sukawara shrine in a cave at the base of a gorge is a short walk from Amanoiwato Shrine - the 200m vertical descent to here took us from ‘sauna’ to ‘tepid’ (alas not the ‘cool green gorge’ experience I desperately hoped for). The sacred cave was the dwelling place of the sun goddess, Amaterasu. It was somehow a 400m vertical climb back to the car (I didn’t imagine it…) and the sauna had become Venusian atmosphere.
Saw some insane WTF things unexpectedly on the way - a massive, epic scale ‘tree house’, now abandoned, overgrown and rotting by the side of the road (who built it? Why???). I wanted to explore it, but two things stopped me - I doubted my insurance covered ‘Tree House collapse’, and I didn’t want to repeat the leech experience - not enough blood left.
Then not much further there was about a kilometre of roadside animal topiary. Japanese crazy is a joy to behold, and is really, really crazy. The ryokan was quite stunning. An absolute haven of tranquility and elegance. Super high quality dinner, in our own private dining room. The stocks in various dishes were out of this world.
There are numerous outside Onsen baths, and even a personal one in our room! Permanently flowing hot spring water bath 24/7 - no water shortage here. Is 4 baths a day too much?? I’ve never been so clean - gnotobiotic outer surface for sure (even my mind is being purged of demons). Overwhelming politeness and bowing from staff.
Finally a bit cooler here.
Drove to a few waterfalls - Nabegataki and Nabekama - blissfully within 50 vertical metres of car parking.
Another great dinner, and 3 more baths…
Next - off to Beppu, feeling v clean - won’t need a shower for weeks.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EyoMRVvP3V3PKCbY9

22 & 23 Beppu
The road to Beppu was quite spectacular. Lots of mountain views, and Google maps even routed us onto a tiny dirt road, where hikers seemed very surprised to see us, having left their cars long behind.
They seemed to think they had right of way. The Toyota valiantly arrived at a major (in the sense there was bitumen) road in due course.
In our endless quest for quality espresso, V suggested a place truly in the middle of nowhere, ‘Mugikura Coffee Roaster’, some distance off the Okabungo Green Rd, in the village of Chiunji - in the mountains between Kurokawa and Beppu.
As is becoming weirdly normal, we found a passionate young guy with a roaster and top end espresso machine pulling top end shots in a forest. We saw Mork chocolate (which is made in Nth Melbourne) for sale on his bench!! This led to a conversation about his time in Melbourne, and that his neighbour was an Australian (Craig, from Tasmania, who was an engineer, who subsequently studied law, and does major engineering dispute resolution cases globally, working from home…), who came to meet us with his Japanese wife and two loveable Akita dogs. He advised us the coffee guys father was the local Buddhist monk (clearly not celibate, which we discovered is common in Japan) and showed us around the village temple, and then his recently built new home on 50 acres his wife inherited, with an invitation to catch up with an NZ mate of his down the road to watch a rugby match that arvo. We would have if it wasn’t getting late. Our 10 minute coffee stop had already blown out an hour and a half.
The quest for coffee has had many rewards this trip, and we are encouraged to become more extreme in this journey, here and globally.
Arrived in Beppu at the excellent Amanek Beppu Yula-Re hotel.
Fabulous breakfast.
Went to the 7 Beppu Hells (I have been told so many times in life: ‘Go to Hell’, and I finally made it). A bit touristy, but impressive nonetheless. Visited Shidaka & Kagurame Lakes in the arvo. Great views, and finally really good weather - 20 degrees, a cool breeze, warm sun, clear blue sky.
Our coffee search led us to Othello Coffee Roasters, who DIDN’T do espresso! However, a nice lady there advised us to go to ‘One Rain (Ichiu)’ Cafe. It was the best cafe experience I’ve had. Not only superb coffee from the new ’Leva Class’ lever pull machine, but the place was an exquisite haven of peace - a new cafe with brilliant design unlike any other, and the most pleasant lady who ran the place and delivered the coffee like a tea ceremony.
Dinner was at stylish ‘Charcoal Grill Seven Wheels Sara’, a Shichirin (hibachi) grill restaurant. Had kick-ass chicken, and ‘wow wow wow’ local very marbled beef, washed down with great sake. Perfect day.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/i14tDpaiAriUhzJT8

24 & 25 Hita
Went to the Bamboo Museum before leaving Beppu. The works inside were quite stunning in their beauty. There was a no photo policy (why???), so there are only a few pics I snapped when no-one looked.
On route to here, stopped for numerous great views, then a coffee of course, and met the same barista from the mountain at Mugikura Coffee (they have a shop in Yufuin as well).
Had a local treat from Milch, a bakery, which was like a biscuit base with a soufflé on top with a huge runny middle. There was a queue, and we could see why. Best $5 we spent in a while. Wandered up and down the main tourist drag - very very busy.
Visited Takatsuka Atago Jizonson Buddhist shrine. The main feature of this are the huge numbers of stone jizo (guardian deity), covering one side of the mountain there. Impressive.
Arrived Hita late arvo at the Route Inn. Wandered in search of the fabled Mamedamachi shopping street, but I think Google led us astray. Mostly everything closed at night. Ended up at a Ma & Pa Gyoza restaurant - Itsupinkō. Idiotically cheap - $6.50 for a huge plate of Gyoza - it’s all they do. It was real local food, and delicious.
Quiet day - wandered around, found passable (nice flavour but very mild) coffee at the train station. Dinner at a small Izakaya - yakisoba for me, omelette rice for V, beer.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9zJkauCv5kq2LKrt7

26 & 27 Kyoto
Long travel day - drove to Fukuoka, then Shinkansen to Kyoto - arrived late arvo.
Nishiki market - utterly packed with tourists - barely an Asian face. Wandered the streets, stumbled into a tiny 4 seat restaurant ‘Nico’ run by one woman, who was a great chef & certified sommelier. Had a European style meal (no chopsticks!), and some interesting wines - she really knew her stuff.. The wine list was very carefully curated, but difficult to navigate - all in Japanese, no English - tedious using google translate for a wine list…
The cassoulet was better than anything I’ve had in France.
Next day good coffee in a carpark ‘WEEKENDERS COFFEE TOMINOKOJI’ - tiny box serving great brew, with a crowd outside. Wandered around the Kyoto Imperial Palace, found more superb coffee at ‘Story’ - really impressive.
Gion area in arvo.
Throughout Kyushu we barely saw a westerner anywhere. They are all in Kyoto.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nEunqGhMFvAUEB1eA

28 - end Tokyo
After another great coffee at Ogawa Coffee Sakaimachi Nishiki in Kyoto, wandered around before Shinkansen to Tokyo. Arrived Tokyo station - as crowded as expected. Nearest exit had a taxi queue of at least an hour. Bugger that - went to other side of station, with plan to get a metro, but found taxi queue of ZERO - walked straight into a cab.
Had grilled eel, and wood fire seared tuna at an Izakaya. Pretty good but not stunning.
Coffee situation around our hotel is dire - nothing within kilometres.
So, we travelled kilometres - to GLITCH coffee - OMG, it was amazing. It was like a laboratory. Super busy with young people enjoying tasting flights of pour-over. We had 2 cafe latte, with a small scone. Most expensive coffees of my life - $30 for 2 + bun. Worth every cent. Mind bogglingly awesome. The flavours of our 2 different Columbian beans lingered for ages. I can’t do better at home, alas. When the Japanese grab hold of something, they go way beyond. I love this country.
Wandered through Imperial Palace gardens, then National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo (MOMAT). It was terrific.
In almost 4 weeks here, we have had one night of non-Jap food. So, tonight was pizza night in Tokyo. “The Pizza Bar on 38th”, world’s best ranked pizza ($200+ for an 8 slice degustation… ) was booked out for over a month. We went to Sabasu in Akasaka. Long fermented base from Kyushu flour. Black garlic, enoki, eggplant pizza - stunning (about $30 + wine). Had a Grenache Blanc, and a Barbera (with a taste of a Moldovian red as well).
Discovered the owner was from Adelaide, and ran ‘Pan & Vine’ restaurant there. Small world. Really good night out. Back to sushi + sake tomorrow .
Went to a small Izakaya across from the hotel, only visible on Google Maps when you were right next to it. The place had a really classy vibe. Run by a lovely lady (another one woman show), again with a superb list of French wine and some truly incredible sake. We tried a range of sakes - using Google translate on the labels showed one was from Fukushima - it tasted fantastic, but we declined a top up (a mistake? Gamma rays can be medicinal…).
The Izakaya was so good we went twice.
Went to another modern art place, but it was too modern for me (and I thought I was a progressive leftie…). Better art can be found in Tusmore, SA.
Made a mistake buying the airport train ticket, and was stopped at the exit (politely, of course - unlike USA, they don’t pull a gun on you), and needed to pay more to get to the departure lounge.
Messy departure experience with Jetstar (but flight OK).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z6hd4eTL5Tc3Re8n9

Coolangatta
Horror arrival with Jetstar at 4:30 am in Cairns - expected a lounge, but we got car park pavement for 4 hrs before next flight to Coolangatta. Declined a shared bottle from a brown paper bag outside, but grateful for the offer.
A few days on the Gold Coast catching up with relatives and enjoying Australian beachwear in its minimalist fineness.
Arrived in Melbourne to pre-booked hand surgery (nothing major - but have to say, sedation these days is pretty enjoyable. It made me think - what is better value? The anaesthetist, or a good Grand Cru - both much the same cost) - fantastic way to end a holiday :(
https://photos.app.goo.gl/S9iu8kMnok1NkgqaA