Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KWpcietf7smoreTv5

Before I retired last night, I wondered about the utility of the mosquito net. They hadn’t seemed like much of an issue.

When I woke this morning, the value was confirmed as my bleary eyes noted an extremely large spider, fortunately on the correct side of the netting. I carefully planned my exit route from the bed. I could barely concentrate on my Wordle.

Today, off to Colombo for my final night here - the next will be on the plane home, where it will be dry.

Stopped at a freeway services for coffee. The building look like an international airport. Overkill for its intended purpose. The espresso was surprisingly not bad.

The freeway trip confirmed existence of a global language, universally understood. Two headlight flashes from oncoming traffic means police radar ahead.

My guide I am sure suffers from sleep apnea, given his neck size. He likes regular stops for coffee to keep awake. A symptom of apnea is falling asleep at the wheel. On a long drive, I would keep a watch out to my right, to confirm that moving into oncoming traffic was a deliberate overtaking manoeuvre, and not somnolence. Actually, he did a great job - I felt confident the whole trip.

The car was meticulously accessorised with protectors of every sort - door edge, footwell, handle, gear shift, seat - he didn’t want any damage.

Tax on cars imported here exceeds 250%, so I can understand his care.

We arrived after heavy traffic at Galle Face Hotel - a well located swish place, on the sea. I can tell how swish a place is by looking at their laundry charges which are per item. The cost to wash my laundry bag here would be about as much as buying a Zegna suit.

The temperature here is an insane 38, but only 65% humidity. I’ll go out later.

It’s not a particularly picturesque city, but there is a lot of pleasant generic colonial architecture, more of a functional aesthetic than anything of note. I went for a small casual dinner at a place called The Gallery Cafe, at Paradise Road Hotel. Housed in the former offices of world-renowned Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa.

Next door is Tintagel, intended as a residence for Dr. Lucian de Zilwa. In the mid 1940s he was given a week to vacate the property by the British military to house one hundred soldiers. The military occupation saw the house wrecked and de Zilwa sold Tintagel to Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike for his son, also Solomon. It is a structure of national importance.

Bandaranaike became prime minister in 1956 and he was shot on the verandah of Tintagel in 1959 and died in hospital. The airport is named after him.

I had a nice curry there - a beef smore - a recipe of Dutch origin, adapted by locals with more spices.

Day 23:

The final day. A city walk is scheduled for the morning.

Breakfast buffet at the Galle Face Hotel was good, with the curries more spiced for local rather than western tastes. Coffee was also good, and I started easing myself back into the western world with a quite passable croissant.

Instead of the incessant Christmas elevator music of the last few weeks, surprisingly a Gymnopedie by Satie was playing, with a supporting ostinato from the nearby waves I could see and hear from the balcony - made for a very pleasant start. The temperature at 7am is perfect.

Even without my hat, a waiter engaged me in cricket talk. I nodded sagely in response.

Then a stroll through the ‘downtown’ area near the docks. Being a Sunday, much was closed, so not the best day for it. It’s difficult to describe Colombo colonial architecture as anything other than utilitarian.

The beauty of this country lies outside the capital.

It’s been an enjoyable trip in a beautiful country. The food reliably good, people invariably friendly, scenery wonderful.
I look forward to another trip. I’ll bone up on cricket first.